The village of Newtonhill lies about five miles north
of Stonehaven and ten miles south of Aberdeen. There
is a lively community, based largely around the school,
church, Skateraw Hall and Bettridge Centre. The centre
is based on the redeveloped community hall. There are
two pubs, a bakery, library and post office, but the
village shop – which long traded gossip as much
as groceries – is now part of a chain of convenience
stores.
Sheila Henderson’s 1986 book “What’s
in a Name” records an interview with Johnny and
Mary Masson from Skateraw Road, the oldest road in
the village. The outside world is clearly wrong, they
say – the village is called Skateraw! “Newtonhill
is on the other side of the railway line,” declared
Mary. When they were married in the 1930s, there were
only three houses west of the railway. There are hundreds
now, and the prospect of more shops at the flyover.
Will the development never stop?
The pier at the bottom of the cliffs as long since
disappeared, but the winches used to haul the boats
ashore can still be seen. Great quantities of haddock,
cod and ling were landed in the mid 1800s, with haddock
being sold fresh, dried in the sun (spelding), or smoked.
But the birthplace of the “Finnan Haddie” is
of course at Findon, just a few miles away to the North
of Portlethen.
The local men often fished through the night. Each
line was divided into 8 or 10 strings, each with more
that 100 baited hooks. The women collected some mussels
and limpets, and baited the hooks. Other mussels may
have come from the Montrose basin, or from as far away
as Morecambe Bay. With large families and subsistence
wages, education was not a high priority. Girls gathered
bait from age 10, and boys were at sea by age 12. Many
babies and toddlers died from household accidents,
having been left in the care of older brothers and
sisters.
By 1855, Episcopal Church schools had been established
in Muchalls and Newtonhill. The diocese inspection
reported “The school which merited most praise
was that conducted by the schoolmistress at Skateraw.” An
appeal for funds issued at that time includes these
lines: “Skaterow … contains a population
of about 300 souls, all, without exception, members
of the Scottish Episcopal Church. … All along
the North-East coast of Scotland, the fishermen of
Skaterow are noted for their integrity, habits of sobriety,
and regular attendance at church…” Not
to mention the local lads habit of driving away the
evangelists from Aberdeen by throwing clods at them!
In the 1880s, there were 60 fishermen putting to sea
in little boats, and over 150 employed in other fish-related
activity. The fish houses were along the top of the
cliffs, and the wives had to carry their heavy creels
up the steep path, and once a week walk the 12 miles
to The Green in Aberdeen to sell their smokies.
The railway station in Newtonhill opened in 1852, and
the change of village name may be blamed on the railway.
There are hopes that the station may be rebuilt to encourage
use of the commute rail links. The arrival of the steam
trawler in the 1880s meant an exodus of jobs to Torry
and to Stonehaven, with holiday houses and then daily
commuters overwhelming village life.